Ahead of a manicure, you want to brush up on all the must-have info. What nail colors are trending this summer? What minimalistic nail art will transform your tips into an ultra-chic canvas? And does a Russian manicure really last longer?
It's impossible to know it all on your own, which is where we come in. Recently, there's been a boom of people ditching traditional manicures in favor of this long-standing technique instead. The result is an ultra-precise, almost surgically clean look. Often, it's paired with gel polish applied so seamlessly it looks like it’s growing straight from the nail bed, and it's quickly become a viral favorite. “Russian manicures are becoming more popular as word spreads on social media,” says nail technician Holly Nguyen.
What many don’t realize is that the process for this manicure is highly technical, and differs significantly from the standard soak-and-push-back manicures common in the U.S. At salons like Russian Manicure in New York City, co-founder Eli Yusupov explains that the term refers to a dry manicure technique focused on meticulous cuticle work. “A Russian manicure is a nail-care technique that primarily uses an electric file to meticulously clean and shape the cuticles around the nail, creating a very precise and clean look,” he says.
Meet the expert
- Holly Nguyen is a nail technician based in Birmingham, Alabama.
- Eli Yusupov is the co-founder of Russian Manicure, a salon in New York City.
Intrigued? Learn all about the Russian manicure and its benefits ahead.
What Is The Difference Between a Russian Manicure and A Regular One
Unlike traditional manicures that start by soaking the fingers in water to soften the cuticle, Russian manicures skip the soak entirely. According to Nguyen, the major difference comes down to the dry preparation and the intensive use of an electric file.
“It’s a dry manicure technique that uses an e-file to completely remove the cuticle from the nail plate,” she explains. “But it’s actually more complex—it involves using the e-file to lift the eponychium, so you can access and remove the cuticle.” That level of precision results in a cleaner, more extended finish.
“Because this technique preps the nail so thoroughly, it gives the manicure an ultra-polished look, almost as if the color is growing directly from the nail bed,” Nguyen says. Yusupov adds that even the tools are different: “Fine-grit sanding bands, specific e-file bits for shaping the nail and cuticle, and a gentle cuticle pusher are all key parts of the process.”
The process typically follows six detailed steps: prepping the nail, cleaning the cuticle, shaping the nail, refining the cuticle, buffing the nail surface, and finally applying polish. “Each step plays a role in ensuring the final result looks smooth, polished, and professionally sealed,” says Yusupov. That meticulous prep work is also why the Russian manicure has such a distinct visual finish. “It’s very clean, very crisp—like nothing is out of place,” he adds.
Does It Really Last Longer?
One of the biggest selling points for clients is longevity, and the Russian manicure delivers. “Yes, it does last longer because the meticulous cuticle removal helps to create a better seal between the nail plate and the gel polish,” Yusupov explains. “The detailed prep work also removes oils from the nail, which can interfere with gel adhesion.” The result is a manicure that not only looks better longer, but also takes more time to show that telltale grown-out edge.
Nguyen agrees: “It helps the manicure last longer before showing that grown-out look,” she says. Some clients even report that their nails feel healthier after switching. “The precision of the electric file prevents hangnails and helps promote healthy cuticle growth,” Yusupov explains. “It doesn’t damage the cuticle area, which can actually lead to stronger nails over time.”
Things to Note
Before you book a Russian manicure, both technicians urge you to practice caution as you select a salon, as the technique is only safe when performed by a trained professional. In some states, like Alabama, it isn't even legal. The reason is that this technique can lead to cutting live skin, which increases the risk of infection," says Nguyen. However, the technique isn’t inherently unsafe. “It’s just as safe as a traditional manicure when done correctly," says Yusupov. "But improper technique with an e-file can damage the nail or skin.”
So, what should clients look for? “Make sure your technician is certified, trained, and follows strict hygiene protocols,” says Yusupov. “You should feel comfortable asking questions and observing their practices.”
Nguyen also stresses that this isn’t a technique that someone can master after a weekend course. “If you want a real Russian manicure, you should go to an expert who has had extensive training to be able to perform it safely," she says.